Monday, March 10, 2008

Chapter 9: This Machine Kills Fascists


Everywhere in Pai is a live music venue, locals and travelers all try to get discovered and network. Second day of my Pai stay I started finding gigs playing music, night after night, so constantly that I almost can’t catch up and keep my repertoire fresh, or write any new material.


“If I keep drinking I’d be six feet underground / Tell my killer if he ever comes around.” Popular face of Phu Pai Bar, Nathan is a Canadian singer/guitar player, I got to meet him through his mother Heather, who was in the Vipasanna program with me in Chiang Mai. Great covers of Neil Young and the Band. Understated guitar with precise fingering.


Another Canadian musician Kyle (3rd from left) sings a Broken Social Scene cover with British girls Diane, Louise and Eve on harmony, guitar and violin, at Phu Pai Bar. With slow blues in his relaxed voice, he has been on the road since November all over South East Asia, without motorbike, without cell phone, and without camera. His laid back attitude seems to keep him in the role of a good organizer/coordinator for open mics and share rehearsal times in town


American singer/songwriter Ryan Tennis from Philadelphia, PA and San Diego, CA is one of the fewer musicians in town who focus on original songs. He and I get together every now and then and practice and learn each other's songs. Great open personality, so much stage presence. Having been a teacher and a public speaker in the past, he does amazing job connecting with the audience.




Municipal park holds an every-other-Thursday event of live music. First time Lek and I met we go to the jazz concert there.



Toshiro plays his hour-long set at Buffalo Exchange with two musicians he’s never played with. Richard on drums, Tua on Bass (above 2 photos by Taiwanese journalist Mr. Yang, www.pixnet.net/yang0902

Ryan and Toshiro, at Be-Bop


Toshiro plays harp joining Sticky Rice Band, a Thai blues band with two smoky electric guitars, at Be-Bop (Photo by Lek)


Toshiro’s slow ballad echoes in Be-Bop


Mr. Noi is a legendary fiddle player from 70’s Caravan, a frontier of Thai folk rock. The band made a great contribution to the nation’s civil right/pro-democracy movement and demonstrated the self-sustainable commune life style in the mountains. Now Mr. Noi owns Phu Pai Bar with his wife Ms. A, two of them together have established the atmosphere of Pai’s acoustic live music scene.



On March 10, after my persistent requests, Mr. Noi calls me up onto the stage full of former Caravan musicians, Bass, Drums, Mr. Noi’s violin, two guys on hand percussions. So I join in with slide guitar and harmonica. No rehearsal, yet I manage to keep it up and soon the whole crowd start dancing shaking the wooden floor. Was it exciting or what?!!!


Week after we played together, Caravan and Mr. Noi’s gypsy band took off to Southern Thailand for the tour. Thank you for the great gig, I see you next year!




Another night of municipal park jazz fest. This one is a cross between western jazz and traditional Thai music.


Lek’s friend’s bar About POP, a smaller place with more Thai travelers in the audience. Good place to try new materials and popular cover songs.

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