Epilogue: Jump!

‘My shop is on Taiwanese magazine!’ at Rhan Lek Lek, little shop of big happiness, Pai, Thailand. Visit www.rhanleklek.com for her photos and journals. www.pixnet.net/yang0902 for Mr. Yang’s Pai photos


‘I’m gonna get a passport!’ at government building Chiang Mai, Thailand



‘Clean beach!’ at Mueng Ngoy, Laos, we pick up all the trash on the beach


‘Happy new year!’ just before the Pee Mai, Rafael on Nong Khiaw bridge, Laos


‘Let’s hitchhike!’ leaving Vang Vieng Organic Farm, Lek, Miguel and I are heading to Lao capital Vientiane



‘Another tourist trap!’ in front of Pha That Luang in Vientiane, Laos


‘Quick visa run, now we go back into Laos!’ at Friendship Bridge


‘Goodbye Lao, we’re back in Thailand!’ with all our luggage in Nong Khai, Thailand


‘Good morning, Bangkok!’ at Hualamphong train station, after 15 hours of over night train ride from Nong Khai


‘Peace!’ the bridge over river Kwae, Kanchanaburi, Thailand, a historical symbol of Japanese occupation during the WWII


‘River boat!’ Chao Phraya river transit is a vital means of Bangkok commuters


‘I got the first haircut in 3 1/2 months!’ for 60 bahts, at Banglamphu, Bangkok


‘The Seed is now sprouting!’ making a short film ‘The Seed’ in Siam Square, Bangkok

*if you have photographed more of our collective jump, please e-mail me!

Equipment and Acknowledgement

as many of you know, I still stubbornly take 35mm film photos. This year I shot 25 rolls of 36 exposure film (900 shots, approx.) in 17 weeks of travel, that’s a way better ratio than last year’s 35+ rolls in 10 weeks. Most of this Rice Farm Tour 2008 has been documented on regular Fuji 400 ASA negative (I can find it anywhere), with my Nikon FE2, a second hand body that I purchased at Adorama Camera store in New York in December of 2006, for $114 or something. It traveled through dusty Highway 6 of Cambodia (www.ricefarmtour2007.blogspot.com), humid Summer of Dominican Republic, corn fields of Iowa and deserts of Arizona and Utah (www.cornfarmtour2007.blogspot.com) and this year’s tour through Northern Thailand and Laos, in the heat and rain and Pee Mai splash. The lenses I brought with me from New York are the Nikon 28-105 F3.5 -chubby, small but a work horse- and the Nikon 20mm F2.8, then in Bangkok I bought a Nikon 70-210 F4 (this was meant to take heroic photos in Myanmar…) good collection of glass, all in compact carrying case


the durability of analog body is not the only reason I travel with a film camera. When you think of visual media more as archival format, digital files are so much more fragile. Yes it may be more convenient for transporting and sharing, and manipulating and deceiving the reality with, but you know, digital files are sooner or later doomed to be collapsed within 7 to 10 years. Imagine the chance that, some 50 years from now, your grandchildren would see your digital picture of your this year’s trip to India. But almost all my photos are on negative and that can last for 100 years


and off course there is the inconvenience of carrying film rolls and developed filmstrips, prints (this year I didn’t make prints, which I greatly missed) and CD’s (didn’t burn CD’s either, for I ordered all the scan to be saved onto my small USB hard drive, which is very fragile but so far every file is intact) and also, film process isn’t that popular anymore, not to mention expensive. In new touristy town like Pai, film process has to wait until the lab gets enough number of orders to run a developer bath, they have no facility to scan negative and the quality of their developing and printing is questionable. And there’s this disadvantage in relying on other people’s skill greatly, unlike digital photo in which you take care of all the post-shooting procedures, I had to rely on someone else to open my exposed film and develop and scan it, sometime I was not fully satisfied with quality of these jobs done. well, after all it ain’t New York… In Nong Khiaw and Mueng Ngoy, northern villages of Laos I also suffered a shortage of film, which in result taught me to choose the necessary moments to use another frame of film


Lek traveled and shared her photography with me for two and a half months. Her equipment is Canon EOS 350D with Canon EF-S 17-55mm and Sigma APO DG 70-300mm. And I still can’t believe that she traveled with a tripod and a digital printer! Although so much weight was added to her tiny shoulders, this printer did make a full use. Especially in remote villages like Mueng Ngoy, she can print out the photos of the villagers she took five minutes ago, into nice postcards


she let me use her Canon whenever I was low on film (in Villages in Northern Laos) or when I need more speed than 400ASA (in the night I can switch her camera up to 1600ASA) or when I simply had to snap many shots (promotion photo for a friend’s textile shop, rock concert, etc.) Two photographers traveling with two cameras, the joy of that is far more than twice as much as if you were a lone photographer with one camera. Having someone else documenting the moment you shoot certain photo, feels quite unique. Above, Lek uses my Nikon to capture me as I try Lek’s telephoto lens, kneeled on the ground…


snap! (Nong Khiaw)


or on our last boat ride leaving Mueng Ngoy, I had my shot with 20mm…


snap!


or here in busy Siam Square of Bangkok, Lek shot this photo of me when…


snap!... I shot this photo of her and the film crew… the fun and possibility of two cameras is infinite, as well as stimulation and inspiration make us try to be better photographers


our friend Miguel Aflalo, whom we met on one of my shows in HIVE bar, Luang Prabang, also contributed good amount of photos onto my journal. Brazilian architect, a quiet observer with a small digital point & shoot, makes completely different expression. It is true that, between all of us traveling friends, digital media makes it so easy to share and swap information with each other. I do think I will soon be traveling with a digital camera, although I want to stay unobtrusive with my cameras, always considerate to the feeling of those who are being photographed, and limit myself with the number of pictures you take at any given circumstance.
Rule 10, ask (in their language) or make sure if they are okay being photographed, and if you can, show the photos to them


my Siam Sie (fortune stick) from Wat Tonkwuean in Chiang Mai (see Chapter 10)says; It’s just like your luck lies on the opposite side of the river. If you could endure through hardship of building a bridge, happiness at the other end will be yours. Be patient when the time comes, you’ll be awarded with good fortunes. The older you get, the happier you’ll be. A widow seems to be the right couple for you because he or she will make your marriage life pleasant, carefree, wealthy and healthy.
All through the four months of my travel, I was always connected near the water, rivers and bridges. In occasions Lek and I walked halfway into middle of the bridge late at night, sat and talked about our lives endlessly. Though I tried my best to help the local community’s youth, education and environment, I have not achieved the feeling that I built any bridge there. At the end of journey I still find myself on this side of river, am I strong enough to build a bridge?, am I wise enough to know how to?, am I courageous enough to cross to the other side?, am I compassionate, thankful, mindful enough when I’m on the other side?

This Rice Farm Tour 2008 has been made possible by loving kindness and understanding of many I have had pleasure to meet on the road. Those who in New York sent me off in peace with little to worry behind, those who took me in and offered me shelters in California, those I met in Wat Rampoeng in Chiang Mai, who taught me how to walk, how to sit, how to observe and to accept, in Pai and many cities in Laos, those with whom I enjoyed playing music together, who offered me venues to play, those whom I taught with, traveled with, cooked with, ate with, photographed with, collaborated in art with… I shall not list all your names here, for that can be just one long list of names rather than me expressing my gratitude. I will forever be in debt of you, and have I got a chance I will do the very best for you in a heartbeat

I extracted certain information and quotes from a variety of sources such as Lonely Planet, Wikipedia, BBC news, Bob Dylan’s lyrics, etc. I would not bother to specify each of them here. There are my subjective opinions and there are quoted facts. I hope I made clear differentiation so you can tell if I’m telling a facts, or my opinion, or even when I’m being sarcastic (which is often). How I spelled the names of places and names of Asian persons can be argued, and it might not be totally consistent i.e. Banglumpoo, Banglamphoo, Banglamphu…

Chapter 43: Lost in Bangkok

Bangkok. just 20km before Chao Phraya river pours into Gulf of Thailand, with its 8 million inhabitants spreading out in 1600 sq. km city*, it’s far more than just the capital of Thailand, but has earned recognition as multinational, political, financial and cultural center of Southeast Asia. (* city of Bangkok and 6 bordering provinces are called Bangkok metropolitan area, and that’s 7800 sq. km and houses 15 million people)


its recent remarkable economical growth has attracted all kinds of business from Western, Indian, Chinese and other nations. It became the largest hub for Southeast Asian tourism, created the word ‘farang’ which is originated from ‘French’, meaning broadly white foreigner. It can just describe a CEO in a suit and tie, or it could be an outright insult for ever-partying Kao San backpackers




booming economy has made Thailand one of the leading countries of the world, specially for the telecommunication (see Chapter 13) above are the CAT telecom building and other skyscrapers towering against the banks of Chao Phraya river


at Wat Rakhang, Buddhism brings spirituality to Bangkokers


while at Central World, consumerism brings prosperity to them


and Chao Phraya river takes it all in, providing water transit


and Japanese technology provides above-the-ground metro transit



‘NEXT STATION IS… SIAM. THE DOORS ON YOUR LEFT WILL OPEN’ BTS skytrain. Electronic display, automated voice announcement, advertisement on LCD screens, everything about it is crispy flashy modern




at Klong Thom area near Chinatown, small shops of computer chips, video games and electronics line up along the endless maze of narrow alleys


and there is Phanthip plaza, a wholesale megastore of IT and electronics. If you are in Bangkok and you need anything from a laptop computer to flash card for your digital camera. This is known to be the cheapest place


Rainy season is approaching and we are experiencing heavy showers like this almost everyday


Lek and Rebecca try their luck on lottery tickets in Klong Thom



Lek and Tofu sisters get lost in multilingual karaoke controller


Tofu sisters (Bethan and Wenna, on far Left) lay down some more mangos and leaves Bangkok behind, on their way to their 3 month long spiritual discovery in India. 56% tofu, 10% MSG, 7.9% migrane highlighter colouring, 4% Lao Lao, 3% Pumpkin Hoummous, 7% Mango (laid down), 100% Panic, Lovely hanging out with you, see you in London maybe?


along the polluted canal where no farang tourist shall know of, there is a corrugated wall with a door in it. What kind of Bangkok awaits on the other side?

Chapter 42: (making of) The Seed

‘and I… I am your slave.’ imaginative and passionate, indecisive and spontaneous, Guillermo (Willy) Martin Maceiras Gomez has everything he needs to be a genius artist, except perhaps, money, time and the organized crew


Carlos has talked to me about Willy on the first night we met in Luang Prabang ‘We need some international professionals to help him making this short film’


so here we go… gather all your brains and connections, we are making a no-budget short film in Bangkok


‘NO PAY, food, transportation, screen credit provided’ I thought I graduated from this long time ago…


for me this is the very last thing to do in Rice Farm Tour 2008. after all the experiences of Vipasanna meditation, life in Pai, Traveling thorugh Laos and teaching English, playing Music and cleaning the beach all for this?


‘…but I never worked on a film shoot in Bangkok, which I have always wanted to, and probably it’s good to build some connections here.’ Toshiro reasons himself during the first official gathering. ‘Carlos, when are we starting the meeting?’ asks Lek


another day, another 'meeting' after our location scouting. While Lek, the line producer is busy on a phone, the director and the actress Rebecca are having a good time on couple of Singha, and off course I, the cinematographer, photographs it. Such a typical scene!


Joy arrives, with a huge shopping bag and the perfect make-up. ‘We want you to be the producer’


let’s go to my favorite ice cream shop and talk about this. finally some useful production meeting


crew, costume, location, food and transportation, budget! lots of concerns run through Lek’s head







Spanish director and Thai producers talk all the details to the bones, the meeting lasted until midnight!


‘Sorry I wish I could help you guys out all the way.’ May 10th, our trusted general, our moral support, our left-handed right-hand man with his flute and the brushes, Miguel Aflalo leaves Asia for the vast land of Australia. Travel well my friend, see you again somewhere




Another meeting welcomes Patavee ‘Art’ Viranuvat (above photo back row 2nd from Right) experienced in independent filmmaking in Bangkok (three photos taken by Art’s iPhone)



May 14th, 2 more days until the shoot our preparation continues. Lek takes Rebecca to Samyod, Bangkok’s central spot for fabrics and costumes


and May 15th, we have final meeting at our beloved cute café On Art on Phra Arthit. Joy goes through all our plans twice, once in English then in Thai


Duangz (far Left) is an award winning short film maker, knows all the pros and cons of shooting guerilla style on the streets of Bangkok


‘Let’s do this shot first, then this, then this. Okay what else do we need?’ Art (Right) watches Toshiro and Willy as they mark down camera positions on their floor plan (such last minutes!) trying to catch up. We have a tremendous confidence in him as our AD


and the morning of May 16th comes around and ready or not, we are shooting this. in the middle of Siam Square



in front of the Art Museum under construction we set up the first shot. All the worker from the Museum come out to see what’s going on


inside the Museum, infinity goes up on a trial, as Rebecca gets all whitened out


right goes thus, left goes thus, her steps are ever slow and steady, unlike those of Bangkok commuters in Siam Square







first set up done! piece of cake


camera rental house in Bangkok required us to have an in-house camera tech attending their equipment all the time. So here’s P’Boy, far more experienced in Thailand’s leading commercial and feature filmmaking, babysitting his little Panasonic DVX 100. Thank you so much!





Are you sure we have enough behind-the-scene cameras?



Camera’s on one skywalk, Rebecca’s on another. requires a bit of coordination


Art steps in to demonstrate his AD skill using walkie-talkies that were timely brought by Duangz


having gone to a film school in Australia, he himself made one short film with an international crew. Smart, quick, present and easy to work with. Currently developing a new documentary film about Pai, as well as marketing his previous short film ‘Takeshi’ a story of a Japanese boy in a traditional noodle restaurant. Visit www.takeshifilm.tk


for P’ Pop this must look like a bunch of children screaming in a playground. Senior of all of us, ex-advertisement photographer quietly observes us until we need his help. This location of the Art Museum is found two days before the shoot through him when Willy met him at On-Art café. Thank you so much for your experience, kindness and patience



last set-up here, with the director’s cameo appearance


then we take a break for touch up on the actress, perhaps we shouldn’t have


for it slows down the pace and dulls the air


‘bad news, we’re getting kicked out.’ that’s no surprise, when a girl in all white make up stroll around in the Central World shopping center with five cameras following her to ‘steal the shot’


so now we are back in Museum again


it’s actually better than Central World I think, and it’s quite symbolic. This is the first art museum in Bangkok, and it’s cool that they are trying to build it in the middle of commercial district (imagine what if Met was in Times Square?) after all the political controversy. And this could be the very first film ever shot here


a couple of more shots and we’re done








Rebecca, thank you for all your hard work. you are such a sport


Joy, thank you for stepping in, and stepping up


‘I didn’t do anything.’ just like she is only a ‘camera user’ Lek keeps a low profile. But we all know you brought us all together


‘I’m not a producer I’m Bruskowh.’ good heart, easy mind, truly enjoyed working, playing and panicking with you Carlos


Perhaps the best part of this project ‘The Seed’ is the making of the seed, which requires the plant to grow into a tree, to fruit and to ripe. Thank you Willy, for the chance for all of us to bring this together. good luck planting this seed, watering it to sprout and to growing it up to plant again

*photos contributed from collective crew personel of production The Seed, many by Lek. if you have more please e-mail me!